Like Phuket, long ago
WA today, Australia -
A TUK-TUK driver is squashing a black scorpion on the road during a brief tropical downpour, the chilli from fiery tom yum soup is burning my tongue and the Andaman Sea is lapping.

My senses are being stir-fried at Ko Lanta, a sleepy island off the south-west coast of Thailand.

The embrace of tourism has not been felt as it has at Phuket, nor is there the vibe and bar scene that many party-going travellers might seek. The island received electricity only 10 years ago and telephones five years ago.

On this laid-back island, about 30 kilometres long and six kilometres wide, a basic bamboo and palm-leaf bungalow can be rented for a mere Bt450 ($20) a night at places like Lanta River Sand Resort and even cheaper if you hunt for a bargain.